| The
fertile Baliem Valley is about 75 km long by 15-30 km
wide. The Valley is inhabited by tribes of Neolithic farmers,
the Dani tribe. The Baliem River, which has its source
in the Trikora Mountains, runs like a snake through the
valley of riverbeds, ravines, jungles, villages |
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with round
houses and stone walls and green cultivated fields. The river
provides water for the Danis drainage and irrigation systems.
Practicing pig raising and horticulture for thousands of year,
the Danis are some of the most skilled gardeners. They are friendly
and welcoming people.
Irian Jaya's Famous Highlanders
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Since
explorer Richard Archbold's first glimpse of this beautiful
oasis of green, dotted with smoking huts and laced with
tidy mounds of purple-green sweet potato vines, the Grand
valley Dani have captivated writers, photographers and
anthropologists who have had the good fortune to visit
the highland of Irian Jaya. The Dani are most famous for
their glorious battles, where hundreds of warriors, shining
with the pig grease and determination, |
faced off
in a very dangerous "sport". But more important than warfare
in their success-the Dani and Western Dani taken together are
Irian's largest ethnic group by far-are the Dani skills at farming.
Although large-scale warfare has ended, the Dani retain a very
strong sense of cultural identity. Despite missionary and government
efforts to change the belief structure and lifestyle of the
highlands-Christian doctrine instead of traditional beliefs
based on ancestors and spirits, pants instead of penis gourds,
concrete block houses instead of straw and wood honai-the majority
of the Dani, particularly in the Grand Valley, have yet to be
convinced that their ways are not those best suited to life
in the Baliem Valley.
The First Whites Arrive
| The
Grand Valley went unnoticed during the early phases of
Irian's explorations, but encounters between Dutch teams
and the Dani had occurred six times, beginning with the
1909-1910 Lorenz expedition. J.H.G. Kremer crossed the
Baliem River's headwater in 1921 en route to Mt. Willhelmina
(Gunung Trikora), but missed the valley several kilometers.
The sight and news of fair -skinned men begot a legend
among the Dani people. Whites and Dani used to live together
in the cave called Huwainmo.The whites, with clothes |
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and guns,
emerged first, but went far away. The Dani left the cave later,
wore penis gourds, and settled nearby. During World War II,
Allied planes flew over the Baliem, looking for possible airfield
sites. American pilot Major Myron J. Grimes American pilot first
glimpsed the Baliem (he did not know about archbold), which
he called "Hidden Valley". He noted the watchtowers and sweet
potato mounds, which he later described as "laid out in checkerboard
squares as perfectly formed as farmlands of the Snake Valley
in Indaho".
As Hollandia grew, as the staging area for the Pacific was pleasure
flights over the Baliem Valley became common activity for pilot
and servicemen. Two war correspondents, George Lait and Harry
Patterson, dubbed the valley "Shangri-La: after being flown
over it in 1944, and the name stuck. In May 1945, one of these
flights, with 24 people aboard, crashed in the valley. Sergeant
Kenneth Decker, Lieutenant John McCollom, 20-year-old W.A.C
Corporal Margaret Hastings survived the crash and an air patrol
eventually spotted them near the wreck. Since there was as yet
no way to land, a funeral service for the victim was conducted
in an aircraft circling overhead, and Roman Catholic priest,
a Rabbi and a Protestant minister read funerary rites over the
radio. Supplies were dropped to the survivors, and paratroopers
landed. They built a glider strip and 47 days after the crash,
whisked everybody out in the gliders hooked back into the air
by snatch plane.
Mandate from Heaven
The next white face seen by the Dani belonged to Lloyd Van Stone,
a tall young Texan missionary from the U.S. - based Christian
and missionary Alliance, who was dropped off by hydroplane on
April 20, 1954. After the war ended, the CMA had begun vigorously
pursuing its evangelical work in the highlands, claiming "a
mandate from heaven to invade the Baliem". The first missions
station, established at Hetegima, and were built to American
standard using flow-in materials. In the words of one author,
the station was "a transplant of American comfort in Cannibal
Valley". It took seven months to build the first airstrip. Later,
missionaries discovered an ideal site for a landing field next
to what was become the Dutch government post of Wamena in 1958.
Evangelical work among the Dani proved slow going. One of the
missionaries, with experience in other highland tribes, called
them the "toughest nuts to crack". Among the many difficulties
was the Dani's strong distaste for the white's body odor. When
walking with the Dani, the missionaries were always asked to
keep downwind. The Dani were a proud and confident group, and
numerous petty insults by the missionaries, and more serious
grievances-such as the two man killed by the Archbold expedition,
for which the white "tribes" as a whole was held responsible-made
converting them harder still. Linguist Myron Bromly arrived
in the valley shortly after Van Stone. His work advanced slowly,
but he eventually determined that the Baliem Dani could be divided
into three dialect groups: north, central and south. While the
central speakers could understand the two others, the north
and south languages were mutually unintelligible. A high point
of early evangelical work was reached on February 14, 1960.
Thanks to sermons by "witness men" who were converted Christian
from the Ilaga area of the highlands, a huge fetish burning
took place a pyramid, at the northern end of the valley.
A pyre of fethises over 200 meters long, more then a meter wide
and 60 centimeters high went up in a tremendous blaze. According
to missionary account, 5,000 Dani participated in that particular
burn-in. Many obstacles to the whole-hearted acceptance of Christianity
remained. Some Dani groups saw the missions as a threat to their
political power, Sunday services occasionally faced attacks.
And another challenge to the America Protestants was the arrival
in the valley in 1958 of Catholic missionaries of the Franciscan
order, Ancestral beliefs remain strong among the Grand Valley
Dani. Conversation to a poorly understood Christianity when
it did take place was largely pro forma. The missions as well
as the government schools and economic projects continue to
be much more successful among the western Dani.
The Dani practice of polygamy, which is still widespread, illustrates
the quandary religious leaders find themselves in. One Catholic
missionary had no objection to this practice, saying that this
way every woman, no matter how old or crippled, is part of a
household. Dynamic, hard-working men, who can raise the $500
bride price, take extra brides. The Priest also says that, according
to Catholic hospital birth records, girls outnumber boys three
to two. Arguments against the practice state that many young
men can't find spouses because the girls are "bought" by older
men with plenty of pigs available for the bridge price. Since
the men can't always sexually satisfy all their wives, this
leads to extramarital relations. A man caught in an illicit
affair, he has to pay a pig-fine to the woman's husband-who
uses the animals to by still more wives.
Harvard-Peabody Expedition
Modern anthropological work in the valley began only in 1961,
with the arrival of the Harvard-Peabody Expedition, including
a film crew led by Robert Gardner, still photographers (among
whom was Michael Clark Rockefeller), anthropologist, Carl G.
Heider, and novelist-explorer Peter Matthiessen. The expedition
spent half a year among the Kurelu Dani, named for the war chief
of kain kurelu, who lived on the easternmost part of the valley,
near Wuperainma and Dukum. The crew shot a beautiful documentary
film of the Dani entitles Dead Birds, and produced a superb
book of the photographs, Gardens of war. Matthiessen's account,
under the mountain wall, is the poignant and informative blend
of novel and ethnography.
Anthropologist Carl Heider stayed on after the rest of the expedition
left, spending a total of 21 months completing research for
what would become the Dugum Dani, his careful and well-written
description of Grand Valley Dani. It was a culture "trembling
the edge of change" he writes. At the time Harvard-Peabody expedition
arrived, the only signs of outside influence among the Kurelu
Dani a few stills in August of 1961, the Dutch colonial government
"pacified" the southern Kurelu.
Ritual Warfare
The Dani of the valley are divided into some 30 clans (or sibs)
organized into political units that header term "confederation".
The Dani believe that men and birds one lived together in harmony,
not realizing they were different. As result of this former
relationship, each clan has developed an affinity with a particular
species of birds, which are themselves considered clan members.
Leadership, of a highly informal variety, was traditionally
provided by so-called "Big Men" or kains-charismatic individuals
who rose to a position of power trough strength and success
in war, the pigs and shells they gave away, and the number of
wives they could afford. Kains acquired their position through
their skill in manipulating the economic system, but the emerged
and faded with changing circumstances. The Dani's ritual warfare,
well depicted in the film Dead Birds, was a far cry from our
usual definition of war. Conflicts, according to Heider, were
mostly over pigs and women, with land rights coming in a distant
third. On a metaphysical level, warfare was waged to placate
ghosts who lived nearby and who controlled death, human illness
and pig diseases. Some ghosts were associated with geographical
features, others were ancestors or tribesmen recently fallen
in battle. These latter in particularly had to be quickly avenged
or they would create great mischief. Thus in individual's woman
or pig problem-usually theft-was reinforced by the need to stay
on the good side of the local spirits. To win back their favor,
kills had to be made in battle.
Once a confederation decided to wage war, it would seek support
from its allies. These confederation-based alliances (of which
there were six in the Baliem in 1961) were unstable and subject
to kaleidoscopic shift in composition. Hostilities usually persisted
for long periods, but were characterized by the sporadic fighting.
A major battle every 10 to 20 years usually led to new alliances
to be formed, with warfare continuing along new frontiers. Usually
persisted for long periods, but were characterized by the sporadic
fighting. A major battle every 10 to 20 years usually led to
new alliances to be formed, with warfare continuing along new
frontiers. Warfare consisted of formal battles in designated
areas as well as surprise raids. Tall watchtowers, constructed
of strong poles lashed together with vines, dotted the valley
to guard against sneak attacks. Most encounters were bloody,
but fatalities were rare. The sense of Victor and vanquished
was at best ambiguous. A handful of wounded warriors was the
typical result of a day's fighting.
To the Dani, " a day of war is dangerous and splendid " writes
Peter Mattheissen. Formal battles had many of the elements of
a pleasure outing. The man rubbed their hair and bones with
pig grease and wore fancy headdresses of cuscus or tree kangaroo
fur and feathers of all kinds, necklaces and bibs of cowrie
shells or large, spoon-shaped mikak, pieces from baler shells.
The weapons employed were long pears, measuring up to 4.5 meters,
bows and arrows. Women watched from a safe distance, bringing
food whenever the men wanted to take a break the fighting. Before
the action started, insults were traded. These were often humorous,
highlighting the opponent's sexual or other inadequacy. Clashes
brought the enemy within arrow range, sometimes spear range.
Actual fighting seldom lasted more then 10 or 15 minutes and
the battle usually involved fewer than 200 men on each side,
though many spectators were always present. Retreating groups
were pursued only a short distance, as reinforcements would
stand by. Some 10 to 20 of these clashes made up a full day's
battle-which could always be postponed when it rained. (The
warriors were very loath to spoil their fine feathers and furs).
Dani warfare emphasized competence and what Heider calls "exuberant
exhibitionism". There was always the possibilities of being
killed or wounded, but an alert warrior dodged incoming spears
and arrows. Maximum arrow range was 90 meters, but to reach
further that 10 or 20 meters the arrows had to be lobbed in
a high arc. Except when launched from very short distances,
the arrows wobbled and were easy to see. There was no firing
of coordinated valleys. Heider characterized Dani battle as
aggressive behavior without aggressive emotions. Antagonists
were seldom mad at each other. They just wanted to show off.
Friends carried the wounded that could not walk behind the line
of battle, there to have the arrows painfully dug out of their
flesh. The shaft of the arrows was weakened bout 10 centimeters
back off in the victim.
Deaths usually came later from infection. When a battlefield
death did occur, the body was carried back to the warrior's
home compound amid much wailing. A kill touched off two days
of dancing, not so much to celebrate the victory but to call
forth the spirits. A kill also triggered a cycle of revenge.
The enemy now plotted to even the score. If deaths could not
be avenged in formal battle, sneak raids would be conducted,
without the fun and glory. Children and women were fair sticks
carried both a blunt point for wedding and sharp one for defense.
Even after ritual warfare ceased under government pressure these
secret raids continue to be used to even scores between feuding
communities.
Spirits and Death Rites
Dani religion, like warfare, is based on spirit placation. These
spirits are either associated with particular features of the
landscape or ancestors. Staying on the good side of the spirits
was crucial for survival and prosperity. All ceremonies and
pig killings were directed a winning their favor. Sacred objects,
called ganekhe, which included stones, can be manipulated to
prevent the approach of spirits. Enclosures for ghosts, with
bundles of grass representing the deceased, are located far
from the villages. Funerals once were the most important Dani
rite. They lasted several years, starting with a cremation to
drive the ghost from living area. Elaborate rituals were held
for important men those killed by the enemy. The ghosts of these
men were especially powerful and dangerous. They could be induced
to "pre-kill" an enemy, after which his actual death was then
sure to occur in battle.
Sometimes the desiccated corpses of important Big Men were not
cremated but kept for supernatural reasons. These are today's
"mummies", the Dani show little interest in genealogy. Decent
is patrilineal and includes generally unimportant when compared
to wider kinship relations. One of the adjuncts to the cremation
ceremony was the cutting off of a girl's fingers. Anesthetic
was crude at best. The fingers (usually the outer two of the
left hand) were tied off with string a half-hour before the
ceremony, and just before the ax fell, the girls were slapped
hard in the upper arm to kill the leaves. The fingers were left
to dry, burned and the ashes were buried in a special place.
In Heider's time, every female older than 10 had lost four to
six fingers to impress the spirits. Although this is no longer
practiced, one can still see many middle-aged or older women
with missing finger. During funerals, Big Men distributed pigs
and shell bands among their relatives, reinforcing ties.
Occasionally every four or five years-the most important man
of an alliance would initiate the Ebe Akho. This alliance-wide
bash was principally at the spirits of the deceased. Formal
mass marriages, sometimes more than 200 at once, also took place
at this time. The main event was huge pig killing and feasts.
The more pigs, the more prestige for the Big Men. |
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